Rising and Setting With the Sun

Off the Accra to Kumasi road begins a paved road towards Boumadumasi. The pavement is deceiving; for once you reach the top of the first bend a dirt road awaits you. The taxi ride with four people in the back seat always gives my insides a good shaking as we hit the potholes and water puddles on our ride to Bouma. In fact, my body has begun to resist, opting rather to take the two-mile walk on foot. The walk is a peaceful one: Plantain trees and corn crop tower far above me, occasionally making way for the scenic landscape in the distance.

Walking into town at 7am makes me feel late and lazy. Children skip energetically in their bright yellow uniforms. Storeowners sweep vigorously, sending the dust back to the road it came from. Vats of water are carried atop heads to their respective homes, vegetables are neatly arranged into piles for selling and oil is heated to start frying yams. If I didn’t know better I would think it was the middle of the day.

I am now more synchronized with the village; I rise and set with the sun. In a place where electricity comes and goes at its leisure and water is accessible for all at a central pump, the sun is more than your friend; it is your protector, caretaker and provider. Now my eyes open at 6am and start to droop around 7pm.

As I hit the two-month mark in rural Ghana, I realize and have come to respect my own limitations. Reluctantly I admit that I am an American, raised in a comfortable environment with all amenities available at my fingertips. Never have I had to fetch the water I use to wash my body, the dishes and my clothes. For each drop fetched I sweat a couple more. A sink is so commonplace that I never once stopped to appreciate it’s worth. To think, all these years I just stacked my dirty dishes in there, spit my toothpaste out in there, rest my soap conveniently next to the handle. I can’t do that now and I miss the sink. And, of course: electricity. Thank you Benjamin Franklin if it was, in fact, you who discovered it flying a kite. To have light at night, a computer to type on, a phone to call family to has become invaluable to me. Once again, I never anticipated a life without these things.


From these reflections begs the question as to why I’ve come here. Why I have opted for a circumstance so extremely different, no difficult, compared to mine. My thoughts are two fold: one for myself and one for others.

I don’t care what explanation someone gives for volunteering, there is always a selfish component. It is there so I think it is worth acknowledging. In this case my selfish gains are perspective on the world greater than myself and appreciation for so much I take for granted in day-to-day life. Beyond these things, is hearty nourishment for my soul from being surrounded by such enriching company. In simplicity lies truth, there isn’t enough “stuff” to hide behind or distract one’s self with. You see real people, talk a real talk and are forced to acknowledge and accept the environment around you. I do spend time with the stray cat, countless chickens and corn crop everyday…brushing my teeth.

The second part is for the work. The education we go through to become a doctor compared to how we are utilized (at least as Pediatrician’s in the US) are so incongruent. It is hard to justify that giving someone cough syrup or convincing a parent a child doesn’t need antibiotics is the richest career I can have. Coming to rural Ghana has reignited this drive to figure out exactly how a snake bite is treated or what not to miss when treating Malaria. Additionally it pushes me to expand my medical knowledge for a greater purpose: education, education, education. Educating communities on having healthier children, on decreasing Malaria and controlling their hypertension seems to have a much larger and satisfying impact than treating sniffles (unless, of course it is Syphillis…I’m a nerd, I know). Not to mention that the clinic closes at 3pm (a perfect working day finish time).

As the three remaining hours of sunlight last, we wrap up our daily duties. Knowing I have no where to go, no one to report to or any TV shows to watch, I accept my current reality and prepare to shut down not too long after the sun sets.

Tro Tro Queen

Flies and I have become friends. We shit in the outhouse then walk to clinic together every morning. Initially their incessant buzzing in my ear had me waving my hands around like a mad woman. But their persistence wore me thin and I have just come to accept them as a constant companion on certain pathways and in certain parts of the home.

Tro-tros and I have also become good friends. Tro-tros are the (at least my) staple form of transport between towns in central Ghana. They are mini-vans that putt down the main road from Accra to Kumasi picking up and dropping off passengers en route.

“Kumasi. Kumasi. Kumasi. Kumasi. Kumasi. Kumasi.” You’ll hear the mate hang out the van door and shout. It is just impossible to miss your ride.

My favorite part: the price is just right. Average cost: 70 pesawas = $0.50. You don’t need to know me well to understand how happy that makes me. But I have other favorite parts. The mate is always a point of intrigue. Much like the way you stare at your teacher’s shoes, blouse and twitches in her face while watching her all day long, I watch the mate.

Each tro-tro has a driver and a mate to accompany him. The mate does the shouting, seating and collecting money. The driver and the mate are a dynamic duo: young men spinning their wheels, cruising the main road and making a dime in the process. They communicate without ever talking. A bang on the side of the door means stop, another bang means go.

The tro-tro extends beyond the mate and driver though. Each country and culture has its idiosyncrasies , this is one of them. Everyone moves with a quiet understanding and this system that looks haphazard and crowded actually is hardly at all. A good 12-14 of us pile into the car, you fill the back most seat first. Time to time we stop at some random roadside, from a little corner emerges a town you may have passed by a hundred times and never noticed. Someone in the back second road will deboard. Then we all will reshuffle ourselves to fill the empty spot and leave room up front for the next passenger.

Everyone on board works on the honor system. You just pay the mate and he never bugs you again. When in the back row, you just tap the passenger in front of you on the shoulder and they pass your money up to the mate and your change passes back down the same chain of people. There really is very little haggling or doubt in the whole process.

When stepping on board the passenger next to you often greats you: “Ete Sen?” (how are you) or a “Good Afternoon” in the crisp Ghanian English accent.

Bring your suitcase, bring your wood, bring your chickens, it is all welcome on board here.

Another idiosyncrony I have come to appreciate and admire really is the efficient use of the head. It is essentially a third hand that I never knew about, but somehow every Ghanian does. When I traveled to India in the past I would, time to time, see a woman carry a ceramic dish on her head. But in Ghana it is a different story all together. You name it, it can be carried on your head. A plastic bag with groceries, a couple books, a suitcase, a board holding sunglasses ready to sell, a bucket holding 20 buckets ready to sell, a sewing machine, a crate of chickens! Now if a few did that, then I would, like with a magician, be convinced that it is a talent that only a few are skilled enough or committed enough to accomplish. However, when I see 4 year olds to 94 year olds all doing the same task, turning their head to talk to each other, grabbing their baby to pick them up, reaching down to scratch their leg without flinching or hesitating about the stuff on their head, I wonder why the rest of us missed the boat on this.

So the other day it started to rain, I used that as my justification to walk around Kumasi with a bag on my head. At first I held it hesitantly on my head, using my right hand as my training wheel and eventually I was hands free. ‘Try and look normal Mona,’ I told myself. I am sure I looked like the Obruni (Gringo) trying to be an African. But now, more importantly, I can say I did it.

At the risk of making a overgeneralization, I feel like the tro-tro and head carrying system exemplify something I have noted in Ghana: a lot of common sense and efficiency. I have only been here going on one month now, so there is still a lot more to learn. But I don’t find myself fighting battles to do little things or having to talk to six different people to get a straight answer. Above all, I really feel a lot of genuine intrigue in who I am and concern for my safety. There is a certain level of peace I am able to obtain here that I was lacking back home. Escapism? Life minus LA traffic? Preoccupation with sweeping and washing and fetching water? Who knows, but all I can say is that I am enjoying my time out here.